Circular knit hosiery



' Feb. 10, 1,948. w. CLARKE Q 2,435,770

CIRCULAR KNIT HOSIERY Filed July 14, 1945 7 Sheets-Sheet 1 111 W 107 l/zyi [13 114 I16 mmmu Lg I i 1.33

IN VEN TOR. fps/IR IV. (LA/Ems Mam Feb. 10,1948. E. w. CLARKE CIRCULAR KNIT HOSIERY Filed July 14, 1945 7 Sheets-Sheet 2 INVENTOR. .EDGAR/MCLAR/(E ATTORNE).

Feb. 10, 1948. E. w. CLARKE 2,435,770

CIRCULAR KNIT HOSIERY I Filed July 14, 1945 7 Sheets-Sheet 3 EN TOR. EDGAR P1. C1. ARKE BY %Zm ATTOAA/EX I 'Feb. 10, 1948. E. w. CLARKE 2,435,770

CIRCULAR KNIT HOSIERY Filed July 14, 1945 7 Sheets-Sheet 4 42A 1 6kg I INVENTOR. 00,419 WCLARKE Feb. 10, 1948. E. w. CLARKE CIRCULAR KNIT HOSIERY Filed July 14, 1945 1.27 7/////////////4 S AEQZE 7 Sheets-Sheet 5 INVENTOR. foe/w W CL/uqws A 7' O/PNEX Feb. 10, 1948. E. w. CLARKE CIRCULAR KNIT HOSIERY Filed July 14, 1945 7 Sheets-Sheet 6 INVEN TOR. fDA/Q WCLARKE 14 TTORNEX Patented Feb. 10, 1948 UNITED- STATES PATENT OFFICE;

CIRCULAR KNIT HOSIERY- Edgar W. Clarke,- Hamilton, ontariog Canadayassignor to Interwoven Stocking Company, New- Brunswick,= N. J., a corporation of New Jerseys Application Julyl4, 1945; Serial No..-605,020

14 Claims. 1

The present invention'relates to knitted articles composed at least'in part-of terry fabric and to the knitting of such articles'ona circular. knitting machine having superposed coaxial. needle cylinders and needles operative selectively'in' either cylinder.

A characteristic feature of Cterry'fabric is that it has long-loops of thread; hereinafter referred to asterry loops, which protrude on at least one face of the fabric and provide a soft cushioning effect; It has heretofore been proposedto produce terry fabric on a circular knitting machine by feeding two threads to the needles and drawing longer loops of one thread-than of the other. For example, the two threads may be fedto the needles and knitted together but with the sinker loops of one thread longer than the corresponding sinker loops of the other thread so as to form the terry loops of the fabric. The terry. loops may or may not be combed or brushed to provide a soft matted fabric surface.

My invention is particularly directed to producing knitted articles, for example articles of hosiery, composed in part of terry fabric and in part of Links-Links fabric. The term. Links- Links fabric is herein used to designate a patterned fabric formed of inwardlyfacing stitches and outwardly facing stitches occurring .inpredetermined sequences in each of a plurality. of selected needle wales. In knitting on acoaxial cylinder knittingmachine, an outwardly facing.

stitch-sometimes called a plain. stitchis produced by a needle operating in the lower. cylinder and is drawn to the outer face of the fabric, while an inwardly facing stitch-sometimes called av rib stitch-is produced by a needle-operating in the upper cylinder and isdrawnto the inner face of the fabric. By transferring selected needles back and forth from one cylinder to the other.

in predetermined sequence-during the knitting, operation; a fabric is produced in whichthe insimple construction; Machines for producing Links-Links fabric, on the contrary; are relatively.

complex requiring superposed coaxial needle cyl- 2 inders; needles" operable' in either cylinder and pattern controlled mechanism for selectively transferring needles-from onecylinder to' the other during the-"knitting operation. To enable a single Links-Links'pattern'drum to control the needle selection, all needles are-transferred tonne of thecylinders atone point of the-needle-circle in each revolutionof the machine and selected needles are then transferred back to the" other cylinder to provide the-selection required by-tlie pattern for the-particular course of fabric bemgknitted. As selected needles are thus continually being transferred back -and forth between the' needle cylinders during the knitting ofthe linke Links fabric, accurate alignment of the needle cylinders is essential-to avoid needle breakageand the cylinders of a Links-Links machine are" spaced close together-to facilitate the needle transfer; The close spacing of the needle cylin-- ders and the necessity ofavoiding interference with the-continual transfer of "needles from one cylinder to the other during knitting has -pre"- vented performing ona Links-Links machine-any" operation requiring mechanism or instrumenta'h ities interposed between the needle-cylinders; Moreover; theneedldselection for producing Links-Links fabric customanlyobtained' by means of selectors or'jacks'having butts at a plurality of different levels making'it necessary to extend the needle cylinder to'such'length that the operationof any mechanism inside the needle cylinder atthe level where knitting occurs is rendered difficult. The provision of instrumental? ties capable 'of operating to produce terry fabric concurrently with'the operation of the Links- Links mechanism; for example to produce fabric which is Links-Links fabric throughout a portion of "itscoursewi'se extent andterry fabric through out another portion of its coursewise extent,pre-" sents a still more difficultproblem;

These difficulties and obstacles are overcome byxthe present invention whic'hprovides for the sald body stitches. In such an article the leg portion is composed of Links-Links fabric throughout its coursewise extent while the instep portion and sole portion together comprise an integral section composed of Links-Links fabric throughout a portion of its coursewise extent and of terry fabric throughout another portion of its coursewise extent. A high spliceportion of terry fabric extending upwardly above the heel can be provided as desired. In a preferred embodiment of my invention the sole and instep portion of the article is knit of a plurality of threads extending continuously around the fabric, the threads being knit to form longer loops of one thread than of another to form terry loops in the sole portion and the same thread being knit in plating relation with loops of substantially the same length in the Links-Links fabric of the instep portion.

My invention further provides a method and apparatus for producing fabric structures of the kind described above, the apparatus being described and claimed in divisional application Serial No. 645,862, filed February 6, 1946. In accordance with my invention a knitting machine having coaxial needle cylinders with needles operable in either cylinder, means for feeding a plurality of threads to the needles and means for operating the needles to receive and knit the threads is provided with pattern controlled mechanism for transferring selected needles from one cylinder to the other during the knitting operation to form inwardly facing stitches and outwardly facing stitches in predetermined sequences in selected needle wales and coordinated mechanism for forming terry fabric. Th terry mechanism comprises instrumentalities cooperating with the needles to draw longer loops of one thread, herein referred to as a terry thread, than of another thread which forms the body stitches of the fabric. The operation of the instrumentalities for forming terry loops is coordinated with the operation of the mechanism for producing Links-Links fabric in such manner as to prevent interference between the two. Moreover, the coordination of the Links-Links mechanism and the terry mechanism makes it possible to knit Links-Links fabric on certain needles of the needle circle while concurrently knitting terry fabric on other needles. 7

In the embodiment herein particularly described, the terry forming instrumentalities are associated with the upper needle cylinder. The upper cylinder is also provided with elements which cooperate with the needles in the upper cylinder to draw inwardly facing stitches of the Links-Links fabric. These elements are herein referred to generically as verge bits or a verge. To prevent interference between the terry forming instrumentalities and the verge bits, the latter are movable vertically and their upward movement is coordinated with the operation of the terry instrumentalities so that the latter instrumentalities are operated only when the verge bits are raised. In order to produce terry fabric for part of a course and Links-Links fabric for another part of the same course, I provide a group of terry instrumentalities extending part way around the needle circle and a series of verge bits of corresponding circumferential extent that can be raised or lowered independently of other verge bits in the needle circle. The actuation of this group of terry instrumentalities is coordinated with the raising and lowering of the verge bits located in the same portion of needle circle so that when the terry instrumentalities are operated, the Verge bits in the corresponding portion of the needle circle are raised out of the way while other verge bits in other portions of the needle circle remain down in position to cooperate with upper cylinder needles to form inwardly facing stitches of the fabric. Preferably, the terry instrumentalities are actuated by a cam or other operating element which is moved into and out of operative position by the movement of corresponding verge bits.

Still other features, characteristics-and advantages of my invention willappear from the following description and the appended claims in conjunction with the accompanying drawings which show by way of example a knitted article selected to illustrate the invention and a knitting machine selected to illustrate the knitting of such article.

, In the drawings,

Fig. 1 is a partial side elevation of a knitting machine for carrying out m invention.

Fig, 2 is a partial plan view of the machine.

Fig. 3 is a conventional illustration of an article of hosiery embodying my invention, portions of the heel, sole and toe being broken away to show internal construction.

Fig, 3a is a similar illustration of the foot portion of an article of hosiery having a modified toe band construction, the article being otherwise the same as that of Fig. 3.

Figs. 4 and 4a are together a composite vertical sectional view through the needle cylinders of the machine, the upper portion of the machine being shown in Fig. 4 and the lower portion in Fig. 4a. Certain parts have for convenience been shown in these views although they are not in the same plane.

Fig. 5 is a transverse section taken on the line 5-5 in Fig. 4.

Fig. 5a is a partial vertical section taken on the line 5a--5a in Fig. 5.

Fig. 6 is a transverse section taken on the line 6-6 in Fig. 4.

Fig, 7 is a horizontal section through the lower needle circle and the Links-Links pattern drum taken approximately on the line 11 in Fig. 4a.

Fig. 8 is a developed view of the cam blocks of the machine and includes at the left-hand end of the figure a diagrammatic side View of the needles, sliders and jacks.

Fig. 9 is a diagrammatic inside view showing the stitch structure of a representative section of fabric of a knitted article such as that shown in Fig. 3 or 3a.

The embodiment of my invention shown by way of example in Figs. 3, 3a and 9 is a mens half hose or sock having a top portion 2 I, leg portion 22, instep portion 23, high splice portion 24, heel 25, sole 26, toe-band 27 and toe 28. The top portion 2| is provided at its upper edge with a selvage, welt or other antiravel structure 29 and is formed of fabric having suitable extensibility and recoverability to pass over the heel when the sock is being put on and yet fit the leg snugly when being worn. For example, the top can be formed of 1x1 or other rib knit fabric or of fabric having elastic thread incorporated therein. In the particular embodiment illustrated in the drawings, the top portion of the sock is formed of thread knit to form selected groups of consecutive wales of outwardly facing stitches and other wales of inwardly facing stitches to provide vertically extending ribs that are more than one wale in width.

The leg portion 22 and instep portion 23 of the article shown in Fig. 3 are formed by Links- Links fabric, 1. e., fabric in which the thread or yarn is knit to form inwardly facing stitches and outwardly facing stitches occurring in predetermined sequences in each of a plurality of selected needle wales. Referring for example to Fig. 9 which shows diagrammatically the stitch structure of a small portion of fabric at the junction of the leg portion, the instep portion and the high splice, it will be seen that in wale I there are inwardly facing stitches in courses l3 and I4, outwardly facing stitches in courses I 5and I 6, inwardly facing stitches in courses I! and I8, an outwardly facing stitch in course l9 and an outwardly facing stitch in course 20. In wale 8 there is an outwardly facing stitch in course l3, inwardly facing stitches in courses l4 and I5, outwardly facing stitches in courses l6 and I1, inwardly facing stitches in courses l8 and I9 and an outwardly facing stitch in course 20. The inwardly facing stitches and outwardly facing stitches likewise occur in predetermined sequences in selected courses of the fabric. For example, in course l3 there are inwardly facing stitches at wales I and 2, outwardly facing stitches at wales 3 and 4, inwardly facing stitches at wales 5, 6 and l, outwardly facing stitches at wales 8 and 9,

an inwardly facing stitch at Wale l0, and outwardly facing stitches at wales II and i2. The sequence of stitches is different in succeeding courses. However, th Links-Links pattern will ordinarily repeat itself in a predetermined number of courses of the fabric. It will b noted that both walewise and coursewise, the inwardly fac-' ing stitches may occur in groups of two or more consecutive stitches drawn to the same face of the fabric as well as singly. The same is true of outwardly facing stitches. The number of different combinations of inwardly facing stitches and outwardly facing stitches that can be used to produce different Links-Link patterns is virtually unlimited.

The high splice portion 24, heel 25, sole 26, at least the lower part of toe-band 27 and toe 28 are formed of terry fabric composed of body thread Band terry thread T (Fig. 9) knit together in such manner as to form loops of terry thread that are longer than the corresponding loops of the body thread stitches so as to project on a face of the fabric in the form of terry loops. As illustrated in the lower left-hand portion of Fig. 9, all the stitches of the terry fabric are drawn to the same face of the fabric, being shown as outwardly facing stitches The body thread B and terry thread T are knitted together, preferably in plated relation with the needle loops of the two threads substantially coextensive. However, the sinker loops of terry thread T are substantially longer than the sinker loops of the body thread Bpreferably at least twice as long and form terry loops on the inner face of the fabric. It will be seen that the terry loops occur at successive wales in successive courses to provide a soft cushion fabric. The terry thread T can, if desired, be an extra or splice thread extending across only the terry portions of the fabric. How ever, it is shown as a continuous thread extending all the way around the fabric. In the Links- Links portion of the fabric forming the instep 23, the two threads B and T are knit together preferably in plated relation with loops of substantially the same length, while in the terry fabric forming the sole the threads are knit with loops of different lengths to provide terry loops as described above. Thus the threads B and T both extend continuously throughout the course- 6 wise extent of the fabric so that there are no loose ends. The leg portion 22 is also preferably knit of the same thread as the instep portion 23 and sole 26.

As illustrated in Figs. 3 and 9, the leg portion 22 of the article is formed of Links-Links fabric throughout its circumferential or coursewise extent. It will be understood that the Links-Links pattern may be an all over pattern or may be confined to selected-areas such as the sides of the sock so that the stitches in considerable areas are drawn to the same face of the fabric. However, regardless of the particular pattern used, the fabric of the leg portion of the sock is considered as being Links-Links fabric throughout its circumferential extent.

Following the leg portion there is an integral tubular seamless section composed of Links-Links fabric throughout a portion of its circumferential extent to form the instep portion 23 and composed of terry fabric throughout another portion of its circumferential extent to form the high splice portion 24 and sole portion 26. Each of the individual courses of this section is formed partly as terry fabric and partly as Links-Links fabric. Referring to Fig. 9 it will be seen, for example that each of courses IE to 20 is knit to form terry loops in wales I to 5 and is knit to form Links- Links fabric in wales 6 to l2. It will be understood that Fig. 9 shows only a very small section of the fabric and that both the terry portions and Links-Links portions of the fabric are much more extensive than shown in this figure. The toeband 21 is knit as a further integral section of tubular seamless fabric which may be formed of terry fabric through its circumferential or coursewise extent as illustrated in Fig. 3a. Alternatively, the fabric of the toe band may have terry loops on the lower side only as illustrated in Fig. 3, the upper portion being knit as non-terry, for example plain knit, fabric. The heel pocket 25 and toe pocket 28 are formed of partial courses knit by reciprocation of the machine and are composed of terry fabric throughout.

It will be understood that the Links-Links pattern shown in Figs. 3, 3a and 9 is for the purpose of illustration only and that an infinite number of different patterns can be produced by varying the selection of needles transferred from one cylinder to another during-the knitting of the fabric.

In Figs. 1, 2 and 4 to 8 there is shown so much of a knitting machine as is necessary to illustrate my invention. The invention is shown by way of example embodied in a coaxial knitting machine of the general type manufactured by Wildt & Co. Ltd, of Leicester, England, and certain standard parts which are not necessary to an understanding of the invention have been omitted for the sake of clearness.

The machine illustrated in the drawings has an upper needle cylinder 3| and a lower needle cylinder 32 (Figs. 4 and 4a). The lower cylinder is substantially longer than the upper cylinder, being provided with a downward extension 32A of greater outside diameter than the upper portion of the cylinder. The upper and lower cylinders are rotated in synchronism with one another, for example by suitable gears 33 and 34, and have aligned grooves or tricks in their peripheries. A circular series'of needles 35 having a hook and latch at each end are operable in either cylinder and transferrable from one cylinder to theother. Whenin the upper cylinder the needles are operated by sliders 36 having knit- 7 ting butts 3-1" and transfer'butts 38. When in-the lower cylinder the needles are operated by sliders 39 having knitting butts 4'! and" transfer butts n. Cams for operating the needles by engagement with theslider butts'are shown byway of example-in Fig, s'where the direction of movement of the needles and sliders relative to the cams, when the machine is operated by continuous rotation, is from left to right as indicated by the arrow; The cams for operating needles in theupper cylinder comprise a stitch caml3 and a clearing cam 45. There are also provided a welt cam'45 which is withdrawn to allow the knitting butts of the sliders to pass through an idle track 46 so that the upper cylinder needles will hold their stitches without knitting during the knitting of welt courses on the lowercylinder needles and a switch cam 4'1 operable in conjunction with lower cylinder switch cams to render the needles on the instep side of the cylinder inactiveduring the knitting of the heel and toe.

Camsfor operating needles in the lower cylinder include a center cam 48, stitch cam 49 and clearing cam 51. When the cylinder is rotated in the opposite direction as when it is oscillated during the knitting of the heel and toe, theneedles are actuated by a stitch cam 52 and clearing cam 53. The lower cam block is also provided with vertically movable switch cams 54 which cooperate with the switch cam4'1 of the upper cylinder cam block to-render needles-on the instep side of the needlecylinder inactive" during the knitting of the heel and toe.

The transfer of needles from one cylinder to the other is effected by an upper transfer cam 55 (Fig. 8) acting on the transfer-butts of the upper cylinder sliders 36 to transfer needles from the upper to the lower cylinder, and by a lower transfer cam 56 acting on the transfer butts of the lower cylinder sliders to transfer needles from the lower to the upper cylinder. The lower transfer cam is so positioned that the transfer butts of the lower cylinder sliders normally pass beneath it unlessthe sliders have been" raised or conditioned by the selecting mechanism hereinafter described which controls the transfer of needles during the knitting operation toproduce Links-Links fabric. Hence the cam 563 transfers to the upper cylinder only those needles that have been selected by the selecting mechanism. It will be noted that the upper transfer cam 55 is located ahead of the lower'transfer cam 56* so that needles transferred to the lower cylinder by the upper transfer cam may be transferred back to the upper cylinder by the lower transfercam 56.

The movable cams such as the't-ransfer-cams', welt cam and'switch cams are operable by suitable mechanism under the control of the main pattern drum (Fig. 1) which isintermittently racked around during the knitting of the article being produced by the machine. As-the control of suchcams is-well known inthe art, it will "be readily understood without further=description.

Adjacent the point at which the needles are actuated to draw stitches, there is provided a feeding station for feeding thread tothe needles. The feeding station includes means for feeding the body thread 13 and terry thread T in spaced relation so that.instruinentalities which cooperatewith the needlesto formtterry loops can come between the two threads-and separate them. In Fig. '4 a feed: finger for the terry thread isindicaitedschematically:at ii-$ and a feed finger for the body thread at59; It will bexunderstood that is moved upwardly by the cam 65.

8" additional feed fingers may be providedat the feeding stat-ion and that the feed fingers can be movedinto and out of feeding position, for ex ampleunder control of the ma-inpattern drum.

The lower cylinderis provided with a series of sinkers 61- or equivalent instrumentalities disposed between successive needles and cooperating with needles in the lower cylinder to form stitches. Thesinkersare shown as having butts 62 which are acted on by sinker earns 63 to inove the sinke-rsbetween an inner position as illustrated at the left-hand side of Fig. 4 and an outer position as shown at the right-hand side of the same figure;

Mechanism for controlling the selective transfer of needles from one cylinder to the other to produce a Links-Links pattern is associated with the lower needle cylinder in the embodiment of my invention illustrated in the drawings. The selection is-efiected by putting the upper transfer cam'55 (Fig. 8) intoo-peration to transfer all upper cylinderneedles to the lower cylinder each revolution-of. the machine and then transferring selected needles from the lower cylinder to the upper cylinder to provide the particular selection required for the course being knitted. The selecting mechanism comprises a series of selectors or jacks 64 associated with the lower cylinder slidersand means for selectively actuating the jacks to raise the sliders of selected needles sufii'ciently for the transfer butt of the slider to engage the lower transfer cam 56 by which the slider is further elevated'to' transfer the associated needle to-the upper cylinder. The jacks 6d are slidable-in grooves or tricks provided in the enlarged extension 32 A of the lower cylinder 32' and partially overlie'the sliders 39 as--olearly shown in Fig. 4a. The jacks are movable vertically by suitable-cams which are'illustrated asacam 65 (Figs. 4a and 8) for moving the jacks upwardly and a cam 66 for moving them down. The jacks are also-capable of limited-movement radially of the cylinder; the'movement being more or less pivotal about the upper end of the jack, A shoulder 6-7 provided'on the inner edge of the jack is adapted to engage the lower end ofthe corresponding slider 39 when the jack is in its inner position so that the slider is raisedby the jack when-the latter This lifts the slider high enough sotha't the transferbutt engages the lower transfer cam 56 (Fig. 8-) to complete the transfer of the corresponding needle to. the upper cylinder. 'When a jack is'inits outer position, the. shoulder 6'5" does not engage the slider and the slider is hence not lifted by the jack. The corresponding needle accordingly remains. in the lower cylinder. Theselective distribution of the needles betweenthe'upper and the lower cylinders duringsuccessive revolutions of the needle cylindersthus-depends upon the actuation of the jac'ks t't.

The operation of the selectors or jacksfid is controlled by a pattern drum-68 (Figs. 4a and 7) acting through presser levers 69 pivotally mounted one above the other in a suitable grid i i. The pivotal axis of the levers is indicated at 12. A- spring T3 acting on each lever tends to swing it toward the pattern drum 58. The jacks-lit are provided with butts M at levels correspondingto the levels of'the presser levers $9, eachjack that is to'be actuated being provided withabutt at one'ormore levels. The pattern drum 68 is provided with projecting pins ls removably-carriedin selected-ones of suitable 9 holes in the periphery of the drum and adapted to engage presser levers 69 to swing selected ones of the levers toward the needle cylinder. In Fig. 4a the third presser lever from the bottom of the series is shown in the position to which it is moved by a pin 15, the remaining levers being shown retracted. When a presser lever is pressed inwardly, a cam surface I6 on the lever engages all the jacks that have butts T4 at the same level as the lever to press the jacks inwardly into engagement with the corresponding slider 39. The jacks are then raised by cam 65 to initiate the transfer of the corresponding needles to the upper cylinder as described above. The jack shown at the left-hand side of Fig. 4a is in the position it would occupy after being pressed in by the third presser lever from the bottom and subsequently raised by the cam 65.

Means is provided for intermittently rotating or racking the Links-Links pattern drum 88 during the knitting operation. The racking mechanism is illustrated in the drawings as a pawl 11 engaging a ratchet 18 on the pattern drum and carried by an arm 19 which-is swingable about an axis concentric with the drum. The other end of arm 19 carries a roller 8| engaging a cam 82 that is rotatable with the needle cylinder and actuates the arm to rack the pattern drum one step forward each revolution of the needle cylinder. As the pattern drum is racked, different ones of the pins 15 come into engagement with the presser levers 69 disposed at corresponding levels to actuate selected ones of the jacks 64 and thereby initiate the transfer of selected needles to the upper cylinder. By selecting the location of the pins 15 on the pattern drum 68 and the position of the butts '14 on the jacks 64, an infinite number of difierent Links- Links patterns can be produced.

Additional control of the actuation of the jacks 64 is provided by a neutralizing cam 83 (Figs. 4a and 7) acting on the tails 84 of the jacks and by cams acting on additional jack butts 85 and 86. Thus the jacks may be provided with tails of difierent lengths and the neutralizing cam 83 may be raised or lowered to engage all or certain of the jacks and move them back out to their outer position after they have been pressed inwardly by presser levers 69 but before they engage the up cam 85. For example the jacks on the sole side of the needle cylinder may be provided with long tails so that during the knitting of the instep and sole portions of an article such as that shown in Fig. 3, the action of the Links-Links pattern drum on the needles knitting the sole can be neutralized so that all of the needles on the sole side of. the cylinder remain in the lower cylinder. Butts 85 and 88 are adapted to be engaged by movable cams acting on the jacks after they have been neutralized by the neutralizing cam 83 but before they are raised by the up cam 65. These butts are utilized when the same needle selection is desired for a number of successive courses. For example butts 85 may be provided on alternate jacks only to obtain a 1x1 selection for producing a selvage or a welt while butts 86 may be used for obtaining a 2x2 or other selection for producing vertical ribs in the top portion of a sock.

The neutralizing cam 83 is movable vertically under control of the main pattern drum acting through suitable linkage including arms 81, crossbar 88 and posts 89 (Fig. 7) so as to engage all, some or none of the jacks as desired. Cams for engaging jack butts 85 and 86 are likewise movable into and out of operative position under control of the main pattern drum, as will be readily understood.

The knitting machine in accordance with my invention is also provided with instrumentalities cooperating with the needles to form terry loops and operable concurrently with the mechanism described above for selectively transferring needles from one cylinder to another during the knitting operation to produce Links-Links fabric. In the embodiment illustrated in the drawings the terry instrumentalities are associated with the upper needle cylinder and cooperate with needles in thelower cylinder and with lower cylinder sinkers to form longer loops of one thread than of another. The terry instrumentalities are shown in the drawings (Figs. 4 and 6) in the form of a series of bits 9| which are located directly above the sinkers 6| so as to project out between successive needles when the needles are in posi-' the bits and between the bits and the sinkers. The needles operating in the lower cylinder are;

raised high enough to receive both threads. When the needles are drawn down by the stitch cam. loops of body thread are drawn over the sinkers to form the body stitches of the fabric while longer loops of the terry thread are drawn over the bits 9|. The needle loops of the body thread B and the terry thread T are thus drawn in plating relation while the sinker loops are drawn separately with the sinker loops of the terry thread much longer than the sinker loops of the body thread because of the location of the terry bits 9| above the sinkers 6|. The lengths of the terry loops can be adiusted by varyin the distance be ween the terry bits and the sinkers. P fer b y the terry loops are at least twice as long as the corresponding loops of body thread.

In the embodiment of my invention shown in the drawin s, the terry bits 9| are moved cyclically between an inner retracted position and an outer position in which the bits project out beyond the needle circle to separate the terry thread and. the body thread as described above. The bits are moved out as they reach or approach the thread feeding station and are retracted to release the terry loops after stitches of the body thread and terry thread ha e been drawn by the needles. While the bits ill or eouivalent instrumentalities may be supported in any des red manner, they are shown as being carried by a dial 92 located inside the needle circle adjacent the lower end of the upper cylinder and hence about the upper end of the lower cylinder. The dial is rotatably supported at the lower end of a shaft or spindle 83 which extends out through the top plate 94 of the machine and is concentric with the needle cylinder. A hearing plate 95 and nut 98 retains the dial on the shaft. The dial 92 is rotatable with the needle cylinder and is provided with radial grooves in which the bits 9| are slidable. The path traveled by the bits as the dial rotates is illustrated in Fig. 6, which shows the dial in plan. Terry bits may, if desired, be provided all the way around the dial. However, if it is desired to knit terry fabric only in the heel, sole and toe portions of a sock, the bits need be provided only on one side of the dial corresponding to the sole side of the needle cylinders.

and 2) which ispivotedon the post III.

tension spring I'I5':pulls"downwardly on'the'outer' aceszwoz f1? tractingzthe:terry 'bits 91 is shown by way-oi example'in" the drawings as cam surfaces engaging r A Lcam butts 9! provided on the terry bits 9!. plate 98- is secured to a flange 99 of'the spindle 93 -by means of a' plurality of'screws' or bolts 'IllI' and lii2; On the lower surface of the cam plate thereare mounted: stationary cams I03 and a vertically movable cam'secti'on' I M which together form a cam trackIEl5 (Fig; 6) the shape-of which controls the inward and outward movement of the terry'bitsasthe dial 92Lrotates relative to the cam'plate 98'; A thin disc:IeBinterposedbetween the cam 1 plateand th'e dial assists in retaining the' bits" 91 properly eated in'.the.= grooves of the' dial;

The? cam plate 98' is positioned: in predetermined angular relationship with respect to the threadfeedingstation of the machine to project and"retra'ctithe"bits at theproper "time to insure preparation' of the body and terry threads" and the fOrm'ation-of'terry loops; When the cylin ders are turned alternately inop'posite'directions as when'knitting"the heel and-toe; the position at' which the bits are projectedi is" preferably shifted'up'on'each' reversal o'fth'e "direction of1ro-' tatio'ni' to assure: proper operation; In the arrangement shown: in: the drawings -Ithis is accomplished quitei simply by oscillating the cam plate:

98:: At itsupper en'd; 'a'ri'd abovethe top plate s'd'of the-machine; the spindle 93 is provided with a fitting-101 havingangularly-i spaced: arms I08;

Ifldwhichstra'ddle a'post I'I I'projecting up from" the"top*plater94i(Figs; 1i and'2). The angular: spacingibetweeni the arms H38, H39 permits" the spindle*93 andfhence'thecam plate 98 to oscillate through'a' predetermined angle which is prefer ablyadjustable by-means ofiabutment' screws I I2, I13; with the'needle" cylinders the frictional dragbetween -the dial, the bearing plate ii 5 and the cams cause'sthe" shaft 93' an'd'cam'- plate 98 to oscillate within'thelimits -determined by. the arms :I 08 and' I09; thereby properly posi-tioningl'the' cams'fori each'direction" of rotation;

The vertical position of the dial 92-is adjustable by." vertical movement of the" spindle 93:

engages the inner endgof' alever- H4" (Figs. 1

end of the: lever I 'I 4 thereby tending to" lift the spindle 93'." The downward movement of the outer end of leverf I14 is limited by an "adjustable stop I'IS" (Fig. 1). Bya'd'justment'of thestop H6} the height'of the bit dial and'hence the len'gth of terry loops formed bythe bits can be? readily adjusted. It'will be'noted that th'espring' I :I5 a'cting throughthe lever I14 and spindle 9'3" provides a'resilient support for the dialso that the-dial will rio't'be damaged in the event the dial is adjusted too high: orithe upper needle cylinder isiadjustedi too low;

In order'to be able to: knit non-terry fabric.

all aroun'd -the cylinder. as, for: example; in knit-.-

ting th'e le'gfportionoi axso'ck', provision is made In for renderirigi the terry. bits 9I inoperative. the arrangement shown by wayof'example in the drawings this is done by. raising the movable cam section lil l (Figs. 4 and 6) out of engagement with thebutts B'I of the'terry bits so that therbit'srarexnot projected; If it is desired separately toc'ontrol different groups of terry hits, the. bits maybe provided with butts of different lengths. For example thebits on one side of the. dial-may berprovidedwith longer butts't-h'an As the "dial' 925 isoscillated. in synchronisin- The fittin'g IIlI at" the upper end of the spindle 93 thebitsv on the othersidez: By vertical movement" of"v the -movable cam section I04; one: or: more groups 'of bits may. be put-into operation or rendered'inoperative .as desired.

The angular position :of-the cam plate 98 and the. shape cam. track I05: which governsthe actuation of the terry bits may be utilized to control accurate plating of'the'body thread-and terry threadduring knitting.- As the hook" of the needle engages the terry threadfirst and draws a'partialloop'over the-bits. 9| before'engaging" the body threadi. the: position" of the threads'in the hooks of the needles" and hence the plating of 'thethreadstmay 'be;control1ed-;by' prop? erly timed inward or outwardimovement' of the terry bits; To facilitate servicing the 5 machines, agate I I! (Fig. 6') is'provided through which the terry bits maybe inserted or'removed without dismantling the machine.

When selected? needles are" operatedin theuppencylinder; asioccurs fin knitting Links-Links fabric, there'rnust'b'e provided a. series of verge bits which serve the'sam'e purpose as the sinkers in the lower cylinder to: engage the. previously drawn stitches and cause 'themt to? be cast off The: lower' ed'gesof the fins'or walls between theneedle.

when ne'w stitches'iare drawn by the needle;

grooves off the upper cylinder r ordinarily serve this function, thei-llower endportioniof the: upper: cylinder commonly'being referred to as a"verge;

The verge has heretofore been integral with'the cylinder or has been inthe'form of'a separate ring secured to the lower end-of thecylinder and.

having needle grooves'aligned'withthe needle grooves of the cylinder;

of the verge'in order'to form long terry loops, the problemarisesas-to-how to prevent interference between the bits and the-verge. The problem is complicated by-the-fact that during the knitting of the tubular seamless section forming the sole and instep portions of a sock such as that shown in Fig. 3, the'terry bits'must bein' operation on one side of the needle cylinders to formthe terry fabric of the sole while the verge must be in operative position on the other side of the cylinder to knit the. Links-Links fabric of the instep, portion,

In the embodiment oftheinvention shown in.

the drawingathisproblem is solvedby splitting the verge intotwosections I and. I I9 and providing means for raising one section independently of another sothaththeverge section IIB corresponding in circumferential extent to the group.

ported; The bearing; plate-I22: is carried by the.

outer race I23 of' an anti-friction bearing I24 of-which the inner race is :fiXed-to a hollow shaft or'sleeve I25 that surrounds the spindle 93 and extends up through the top plate I94 of the machine; The upper end of the sleeve I25 is provided with a collar or fitting I25 that engages the inner end of a lever I21 which is pivotally supported at I28 by a post projecting up from.

the top-plate 94 (Fig. 1:). The outer end of the lever I2I=- isconnected :bya'linkor riser I29 with As the terry bits 91' preferably project at a level above the'lower edge line end of a rocker arm I3l which is pivoted at I32 and is provided at the other end with a cam follower I33 adapted to engage a cam I34 on the main pattern drum 51. When the cam follower I33 rides up on cam I34; the upper needle cylinder is lifted and the verge section 8 which is carried by the upper cylinder is raised up out of the way of the bits 9| so that the latter can be operated to produce terry fabric, for example in the sole portion of a sock. During the knitting of the top portion and the leg portion of a sock where there is no terry, the. upper needle cylinder and associated verge section II8 are lowered so that the two sections of the verge-are at the same level thereby providing a properly positioned knocking-over edge for the upper cylinder needles knitting the vertical rib fabric of the top or the Links-Links fabric of the leg portion. An adjusting screw I35 (Fig. 1) extending through the collar I26 and adapted to engage the top plate 34 adjustably determines the lower position of the upper cylinder;

The other verge section H9 (Fig. 4) is carried.

by the bit dial 92 and normally remains at a constant, level. As the ends of theverge section I I5 carried by the dial abut'the ends of the verge section II8 carried by the upper needle cylinder, the bit dial 92 is caused to rotate with the upper needle cylinder and the needle grooves of the verge section I I9 are maintained in proper alignment with corresponding needle grooves of the upper and lower cylinders. The split verge in accordance with my invention thus forms a simple and effective means for driving the bit dial 32 in synchronism with the needle cylinders.

I In accordance with my invention, the operation of the dial bit 9| is coordinated with the raising and lowering of the verge so that the bits are in operation only when the verge section corresponding in circumferential extent to the group of bits is raised up out of the way. In the embodiment of my invention shown in the drawings mechanism for raising and lowering the movable bit cam section I04 (Fig. 4) to put the bits into and out of operation is actuated by vertical movement of the upper needle cylinder and hence by the vertical movement of the verge section II8. As illustrated in Figs. 4, 5 and 5a, themovable cam section I04 is carried by two posts or pins I 36 which extend up through bearing sleeves or holes I3I in the cam plate 88. A lever I38 for raising the cam section I04 straddles the spindle 93 and rests loosely on the heads of the diametrically opposite bolts I02 which provide a fulcrum for the lever to rock about a horizontal axis. A pin I39 projecting upwardly from the cam plate 98 through a hole in the lever I38 serves to locate the lever without interfering with its rocking movementr One end of the lever I38 lies under a crossbar I 4| that extends across between the two pins I36 and is retained by the heads of the pins. The other end of the lever I38'projects upwardly and is adapted to engage the lower side of the bearing plate I22 of the upper needle cylinder. The upwardly projecting end is preferably hardened or provided with roller to reduce friction and wear. A spring I42 acts between the movable cam section I04 and the cam plate 93 to press the cam section downwardly.

When the upper needle cylinder is lowered so that the verge section I I 8 is in its lower or operative position, the bearing plate I22 presses down on the left-hand end'of the lever I38 as viewed in Fig. 4 and lifts the right-hand end of the lever thereby raising the movable cam section I04 and rendering the bits 9| inactive. Interference between the bits and verge which would otherwise result in breakage of the bits is thereby positively prevented. When the verge section I I8 is raised by moving the upper needle cylinder upwardly, the upward movement of the bearing plate I22 permits the movable cam section I04 to be lowered by spring I42 to operative position in which it engages the butts of the terry bits. It will thus be seen that the terry bits on the sole side of the needle cylinder can be put into operation only when the corresponding verge section H8 is raised.

An important feature of my invention from the point of view of construction and maintenance of the machine is that the dial 92, bits 9I, cam plate 98 with its associated cams and the complete operating mechanism for the movable cam section I04 are all assembled as a unit on the spindle 93 and can be removed from the machine without disturbing the relation of the parts. The operation of the machine will be more fully understood from the following description of the steps in making an article of hosiery such as those shown in Figs. 3 and 3a. The socks are preferably produced by string work with a number of ravel courses or a draw thread between successive socks in the string. To produce the welt or anti-ravel edge 29 alternate needles are transferred to the upper cylinder and at least one course of lxl rib is knit. The welt cam 45 (Fig, 8) is withdrawn to render the upper cylinder needles inoperative while a plurality of welt 7 courses are knit on lower cylinder needles .only.

- to form the top portion 2I of the sock. However.

Thereupon the welt cam again goes in to close the welt. The 1x1 rib knitting may be continued if a broad rib top is desired, the needle selection is changed, for example by means of jack butts 36 (Fig. 4a), to position groups of needles in the lower cylinder and intervening needles or groups of needles in the upper cylinder.

Upon completion of the top portion 2| (Fig. 3) any cams acting on jack butts or 86 (Fig. 4a.) are withdrawn and the neutralizing cam 83, which has heretofore been raised \to neutralize the jacks, is lowered to the position shown in Fig. 4a so that the Links-Links pattern drum becomes effective. During the knitting of the leg portion 22 all upper cylinder needles are transferred to the lower cylinder each revolution of the machine by the upper transfer cam 55 (Fig. 8) and selected needles are transferred back to the upper cylinder under control of the Links-Links pattern mechanism to provide the needle selection required for the course being knitted to produce the Links-Links pattern desired. It will be understood that during this phase of the knitting operation, selected needles throughout the circumference of the needle cylinder are subject to the control of the Links-Links pattern drum. When the high splice portion 24 (Fig. 3) is reached, the neutralizing cam 83 (Fig. 4a) is raised sufliciently to engage the long tail jacks, i. e., all the jacks on the sole side of the needle cylinders so that the corresponding needles are all retained in the lower cylinder to produce the outwardly facing stitches of the terry fabric of the high splice. At approximately the same time the upper needle cylinder 3I is raised by the cam I34 acting through the linkage shown in Figs. 1 and 4. The upward movement of the upper needle cylinder raises the verge section IIB (Fig. 4) out of the Way of the terry bits on the sole stead ofin consecutive wales and courses.

15? side of the-needle cylinder 'and simultaneously lowers the movable-bit cam section 104 into operative-position-to;engage the butts'of the terry bits; The-.terrybits are. thereby cyclically proj ected duringz rotation'of-the. needle cylinder and cooperate with the needles. to formthe terry fabric. of the .high splice portion of the. sock. The needlesonthe instep side of the needle cylinder'continue under the control of the Links-Links patternmechanism which transfers selected needlese from one cylinder tosanother to produce a continuationof the Links-Links fabric of the leg.

The Links-Links mechanism and the terry mechanism thus operate concurrently.-

During the knittingof the heel, the machine isoperated by'reciprocationor oscillation of the needle cylinders and the needles on the instep side of the. cylinders are rendered inactive under controlof the-switch cams 41 and 54 (Fig. 8). When the -heel is completed, circular knitting is resumedato knit .thersole portion 26 andintegral instep portion 23 by the concurrentoperation of the terry mechanismand-the Links-Links mechanismas=described above for. the high splice and theinitialpart of theinstep portion.

If; it.is-:desired toform the toe-band portion 21- of terryfabric throughout its coursewise extent the knitting of Links-Links fabric on the instep. side of the needle-cylinders is discontinued when the toe-bandi reached and terry bits provided onthe instep-side ofthe bit dia] 92 are putinto-operation. The verge section I I9 on the instep side-*of the dial;is in thisevent provided with. suitable openings topermit projection of the bits. The.toe.portion 28 is knit in the same manner. as the heelandispreferably followed by one or more-.courses'of plain knitting to provide a loopers edge. Uponcompletionof the toe, the upper needlecylinder. is lowered, thereby bringing the. two sectionsof the. verge to the same level andliftingthemovable bit cam section I04 by engagement of the bearing plate [22 (Fig. 4) of. the upper. cylinder with the upwardly projectingend. of the lever I38. The terry bits are thereby. rendered inactive, and interference between the bits .and the lowered verge section I I8 is positively prevented;

While the operation of the machine has been described for. producing articles of, hosiery such as shown in Figs. 3 andSa it will be understood that the machineis' not limited to such articles. Moreover, my invention is not limited to the structural details herein described by way of example, asmodifications may be made both in the knitted article and the machine. For example in the terry portions of the fabric, terry loops may be provided in spaced Wales or spaced courses in- The machine may, if desired, be provided with two or more feeding stations and corresponding knitting waves to produce a plurality of courses simultaneously. A multi-feed machine can, for example, be advantageously-used to produce terry loops-in spacedcourses by actuating the terryforming instrumentalities at one feed but not at another. While in the particular arrangement shown in the drawings a section of the verge is raised by raising the upper needle cylinder, it will be understood that the verge section may be raised independently of the cylinder, for example by being slidably mounted on the cylinder or on the dialcarrying the terry instrumentalities. It will be apparent to those skilled in the art that still other modifications may be made within the scope of 'theappendedclalms.

What I. claim: and. desire .to .secure "by: Letters Patent is:

1. An article of hosiery comprising. leg; and instepportionscomprising thread knit to form inwardly. facing stitches and outwardly, facing stitches. occurring in predetermined. sequences in each of a plurality of selected. needlewales, and heel, sole and toe portions comprising aplurality of threads .knitto formbody stitchesand terryloops of greaterv lengththan saidbody stitches.

2. In anarticle of hosiery, the combinatlonof a top. portion comprising threadknittoform selected wales of inwardly. facing stitches and other wales of outwardly facingstitchesleg and instep portions comprising threadknit. to. form inwardly facing stitches and outwardly facing stitches occurring in predetermined sequences .ln eachof a plurality of selected wales,.and. heel and toe portions comprising threadknit toform terry fabric- 3. In an article of hosiery, the combination of a top portion comprisingthread knittoform selected groups of consecutive wales of. outwardly facing stitches and other walesof inwardly facing stitches, leg and instep portions. comprising thread knit to form inwardly. facingstitches and outwardly facing stitches occurring. in predetermined. sequences in each ofa. pluralityof selected wales, and heel andv toe portions comprising thread knit to form terry fabric.

4. In an article of hosiery, the combination'of I leg and. instep portions comprising thread knit toform inwardly facingstitches andoutwardly facing stitches. occurring in predetermined sequences in each of a plurality. ofselected wales; groups of successive stitches of selected courses being drawn to the same face of the fabric, and heel, sole and toe portions comprising thread knit to form terry fabric.

5. In an article of hosiery, the combination of leg and instep portions comprising. thread knit toform inwardly facing stitches and outwardly facing stitches recurring in predetermined" sequences in each of selected Wales to provide'a repeating Links-Links patternjand heel, soleand toe portions comprisingthreadknit to form terry fabric.

6. A knitted article comprising a section formed throughout its coursewise extent of: thread: knit to form inwardly facing stitches and outwardly facing stitches occurring in predetermined sequences in each of a plurality of selected. wales to provide a Links-Links pattern, and-gan integral section formed throughout a portion. only of' its coursewise extent of thread knit to form inwardly facing stitches and outwardly facing stitches'occurring in predetermined sequences in eachv of a plurality of selected wales to provide a continu ation of the Links-Links pattern of said-first mentioned section and formedthroughoutanother portion of its coursewise extent of thread knit to form terry fabric.

'7. A knitted article comprising a section formed. throughout its coursewise extent of threadv knit to form inwardly facing stitches and outwardly. facing stitches occurring in predetermined sequences in each of a, plurality of selected 17 tern of said first mentioned section and formed throughout another portion of its coursewise extent of the same thread knit to form terry fabric.

8. An article of hosiery comprising leg and instep portions of Links-Links fabric and integral heel, sole and toe portions of terry fabric.

9. An article of hosiery comprising leg and instep portions of Links-Links fabric and integral high splice, heel, sole and toe portions of terry fabric.

10. An article of hosiery comprising a top portion of vertical rib fabric, leg and instep portions of Links-Links fabric and integral heel, sole and toe portions of terry fabric.

11. A method of knitting which comprises knitting a plurality of threads together while drawing longer loops of one of said threads than of another to form terry fabric and concurrently producing an integral portion of fabric by drawing selected stitches of a course to the outer face of the fabric and other stitches of said course to the inner face of the fabric and varying the selection in successive courses so that inwardly facing stitches and outwardly facing stitches occur in I 18 responding loops of anotherthread and a series of inwardly facing stitches and outwardly facing stitches occurring in predetermined sequences, the arrangement of inwardly facing stitches and outwardly facing stitches being varied in successive courses.

14. A knitted article comprising a section formed throughout its coursewise extent of thread knit to form inwardly facing stitches and outwardly facingstitches occurring in predetermined sequences in each of a plurality of selected wales to provide a Links-Links pattern, an integral section formed throughout a portion only of its coursewise extent of thread knit to form inwardly facing stitches and outwardly facing stitches occurring in predetermined sequences in each of a plurality of selected wales to provide a continuation of the Links-Links pattern of said first mentioned section and formed throughout another portion of its coursewise extent of thread to form terry fabric, and a further integral section formed throughout its coursewise extent of thread knit to form terry fabric.

EDGAR W. CLARKE.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the file of this patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 2,144,563 Davis Jan. 17, 1939 2,231,399 Thurston Feb. 11, 1941 2,316,823 Thurston Apr. 20, 1943 2,318,643 Thurston May 11, 1943 2,370,449 Clarke Feb. 27, 1945 2,370,450 Clarke Feb. 27, 1945 2,375,684 Page May 8, 1945 

